Gather ‘round boys and girls, and I’ll tell you a tale as old as time. You’ve heard this one a million times. Local boy goes to school, becomes a surgeon, and … buys an old grocery store and turns it into an amazing restaurant featuring house made charcuterie. Welcome to “The ‘Rette.”
A CHANCE TOO GOOD TO PASS UP
Dr. Robert Autin, “Doc” as he is affectionately known, is a board certified general and bariatric surgeon. There is no questioning his dedication to medicine and his patients, but the good doctor also has another passion … butchery and feeding people.
In 2017, a friend of the doctor’s told him that he should buy her Freetown grocery store. Doc didn’t have to think long on the decision. He immediately knew that he wanted to transform the humble grocery store into a place the community could gather, enjoy a meal, and relax.
The Acadiana Superette had been around for decades, so it only seemed fitting to keep the name of the Lamar Street landmark. But that’s about all that would stay the same.
One of the first things Doc wanted was an outside gathering place. So, he built a grand patio from a grass infested concrete slab in back of the building by refurbishing the concrete and adding a brick enclosed steel smoker, smoke house, open hearth fireplaces, and a wood burning brick pizza oven.
THE GOOD STUFF
When asked what is the essence of the food at the ‘Rette, Doc said, “Uniquely made Cajun inspired meats.”
The ‘Rette is the only place in Lafayette Parish producing its own, house made, from scratch, charcuterie. And we’re not talking about candied pecans and cotton candy flavored grapes on the board here. We’re talking real, honest, cured and fermented meats. Pastrami, salami, pepperoni, tasso, bacon, boudin, and Cajun smoked sausage are always in the display case.
Speaking of the pastrami, one of the favorite dishes at the ‘Rette is their Rueben sandwich. This is a signature sandwich due to the quality of its ingredients, made with marbled rye, house made sauerkraut, their signature dressing called ‘Rette Sauce, and that incredible pastrami. This is a sandwich that will change you, and capable of inducing depression when you hear that they’re sold out for the day. It’s that good.
Their burgers are amazing as well. Rich beef flavor, surrounded by the perfect toasted bun and creamy cheese.
Recently they’ve introduced a sandwich they call the Italian – house made mortadella (that’s bologna to you and me), house made pepperoni, melted Swiss cheese, a little lettuce and tomato, mayo and mustard on French bread. Lawd!
BARBEQUE
It’s all fun and games until the smoke starts rollin’. I can sum this up in one sentence. They only smoke prime briskets. That’s all you really need to know. Low and slow with the right mix of hardwoods to produce absolutely mouth-watering brisket, pulled pork, ribs, and chicken. Add in their house made sauce, and you’ve got something special. Smoky, tender, perfectly seasoned barbecued meats.
A DOCTOR IN THE HEN HOUSE
If there was anyone who is in their element, it’s a doctor playing butcher. When asked if operating on people is similar to operating on animals he said, “They are amazingly similar. I can identify the muscles in each species.”
The truth be told, Doc simply loves breaking down a side of beef or a hog.
You’re probably thinking how does a surgeon have time to run a restaurant? Good question, and it’s the first one I asked him. First of all, he balances his time very well. And second, he has help.
PAGING CHEF GREEN … PAGING CHEF GREEN
When the ‘Rette first got going, Robert had a partner. After a short time that partnership went the way partnerships often go, and he needed a special someone to help fulfill his vision.
Enter Chef Don Green. Chef Don is formerly trained and is a graduate of the incredible Louisiana Culinary Institute. He is very serious about his kitchen and the food that comes out of that kitchen, but Chef Don has a laid-back vibe. Sporting a full beard, worn jeans, and faded tee, he’s soft spoken and highly intelligent.
Don came in and added a chef’s flair, elevating and refining dishes, introducing new concepts, and balancing flavors. Like he says, “I want to cook things people can eat all the time,” meaning delicious everyday foods.
He makes his stocks from scratch in the old way by first roasting bones and vegetables, then simmering in water for 12-15 hours. You will not find jarred stock base concentrates or powder mixes here.
He applies the classic French techniques he learned in school to the rustic, bold world of smoked and cured meats. “I’m trying to take you down memory lane so you can make new memories,” said Don. “This place is much more than a burger joint.”
LOOKING DOWN THE ROAD
The future of the Superette is delicious. Doc and Chef want to draw people in by doing more whole animal cooking. Couchon de lait, roasted lamb, and sides of beef will be cooked outside on the patio so all can enjoy the process. Doc is very transparent with his recipes and techniques. To him and Chef Don, it’s all about having great food and a great time.
Both men want to employ more farm to table. In fact, on the day of this interview Doc was outside, hard at work making raised beds for a garden.
Don’t be surprised to see special tastings and events in the near future.
Chef Don wants to be a little more innovative and trendier in order to attract a wider audience. He wants to flex the restaurant’s culinary muscles.
ENJOYING THE EXPERIENCE
Doc has a wonderful philosophy about his little jewel in Freetown. “Come as you are, enjoy where you are, and have some great food. We would all be better off if we shared a meal together.”
I couldn’t agree more.
Pay ‘em a visit at 600 Lamar St in Lafayette. They’re open from 11 a.m. – 3 p.m. Tuesday through Saturday. And for the love of all things good in this world … get the Reuben. Stay hungry.