Gris Gris: Taking New Orleans by Storm

Gris Gris: Taking New Orleans by Storm

EXECUTIVE CHEF AND PROPRIETOR ERIC COOK
A native New Orleanian, Eric Cook spent six years serving our country in the United States Marine Corps. “I got out and got back home to New Orleans, and a friend of a friend got me a job in a kitchen,” he explained, crediting the start of his career as being “completely accidental.” This casual suggestion set the stage for the development of one of the most iconic chefs in New Orleans.


After stumbling into the culinary industry, Cook trained at the John Folse Culinary Institute and began his career at the famous Brennan’s restaurant in the French Quarter. He studied under the late Chef Mike Roussel — also a New Orleans native whose talents led to preparing meals for President Reagan’s second inauguration and a summit between Reagan and Soviet leader Mikhail Gorbachev, as
well as appearances on Good Morning America and The Today Show, among many other accolades.

gris gris2Cook describes Roussel as “one of the most giving men in the entire world, as far as sharing knowledge and experience and his past and his stories,” and looks back on his experience and his team at Brennan’s with enthusiasm. “Being in one of the biggest restaurants in the whole world, doing insane numbers, and just having fun doing them with a bunch of pros,” he reflected.

Soon after learning from Roussel, Cook worked at Commander’s Palace as sous chef and chef de partie, then moved on to executive chef at several other well-known New Orleans eateries, such as the American Sector, Bourbon House and Tommy’s Cuisine. He’s also worked as a private chef, executive banquet chef, and research and development consultant for several national restaurants. Although his list of accomplishments is lengthy, Cook remains humble and stated he is just doing what he loves. “For me, it’s about being a part of a community. And if I can make a living and take care of my family and enjoy what I love doing — which is operating a restaurant in my favorite city in the whole world and being in a place where people like to hang out every day,” he said.

GRIS-GRIS
Eric Cook launched his own restaurant on Magazine Street in August 2018, to much acclaim. As the owner of Gris-Gris, Cook strives to be a “good neighbor” by offering delicious dishes and a social ambiance that makes people feel at home. You walk in the restaurant, and you are in the kitchen. That’s what it is like in my house,” he explained, emphasizing that in many Southern homes, the kitchen is the “center of the universe.” His restaurant recreates the social aspect of cooking between friends.

Cook describes the menu at Gris-Gris as recognizable and approachable refined Southern food. “A lot of it is just looking back and doing simplicity at its finest,” he said. He brings dishes which are “picked out of a side, dusty, old gas station café and brought to a restaurant in the city and just elevated — but the story is still there, the history is still there, and the love is still there. And that’s what the food at Gris-Gris is about. It’s about trying to preserve our Southern food,” he said.

Gris-Gris has been named Eater New Orleans’ Reader’s Choice for both 2018 Restaurant of the Year and Chef of the Year, New Orleans CityBusiness’ 2018 Restaurant of the Year, New Orleans Magazine’s Best Restaurants of 2019 and TimeOut.com ranked it as one of the best New Orleans Restaurants to visit. “I try to mix up a little bit of the experience I’ve had in restaurants and from the big Creole houses in New Orleans, along with holiday fare from the family and just dishes I remember growing up as a kid. Just putting that fine dining package behind it and presenting it in a location and an atmosphere that’s like no other place in the world,” he said.

Cook’s favorite dish to prepare is oyster pie, and it is “a play on oyster artichoke soup. It’s a really rich, iconic combination of flavors with oysters, double cream, tarragon, butter, leeks and green onion. And we add mashed potatoes and herbed breadcrumbs on top for some texture and poached oysters in there,” he described. A menu including shrimp and grits, pork chops, cast-iron seared fish and shrimp, chicken and dumplings, and chargrilled filet mignon appeals to clientele of all ages. Cook’s chicken and andouille gumbo has received rave reviews, and he had the opportunity to prepare it together with celebrity chef Gordon Ramsay. The gumbo is now world-famous, thanks in part to Cook’s appearance on the second season of “Gordon Ramsay: Uncharted in June 2020.”

COOK’S EXPERIENCE WITH GORDON RAMSAY
Internationally renowned Michelin-starred chef, restaurateur and TV star Gordon Ramsay travelled to New Orleans to shoot an episode for the second season of “Gordon Ramsay: Uncharted,” a National Geographic show which features Ramsay’s exploration of local flavor from acclaimed chefs around the globe.

Cook described Ramsay as a genuine guy, with childlike enthusiasm. “Ramsay is an outstanding person, and he’s even a better cook. He’s a true professional,” he recalled. “The first time we ever met was Act 1 in the show. We didn’t have a script, and we didn’t have anything to go off of — he got off the boat, and I was on the dock cooking gumbo, and we met like two old friends by the water getting ready to go fishing,” Cook remembered.

Additionally, “he was really genuine about representing South Louisiana, which I worked really hard on,” Cook said. Issues like coastal erosion, the abundance of natural resources in South Louisiana, and the importance of conserving the wetlands are near and dear to Cook’s heart, and he wanted to make sure they were brought up during the show.

Cook regards Ramsay as a “great spokesperson to have on your side, bringing attention to the challenges we face on the coast.” Together, Cook and Ramsay brought a snapshot, not only of delicious Louisiana cuisine, but also of societal and environmental issues of the Gulf Coast to the attention of viewers in 172 countries.

Cook approaches his career with gusto and with so much enthusiasm; you can feel the love he has for food and for his city when he speaks. “Recreating dishes and recreating memories are really the best part of the whole job,” he said. He views dining as being not only about the food, but also about the connection and conversation had during a meal. He goes to work every day with this philosophy: “Be a good neighbor. Invite people over for dinner every day.” The invitation is open, and Gris-Gris is awaiting your visit.